Tips and Techniques

Tips & Techniques


Installation

Securely bolt machine stand to concrete floor or trailer deck, or HitchMount. Plywood sub floors may require another layer of 3/4" plywood for more solid mount as the flooring may bend while in use.

Beadbreaker

On the No-Mar Classic, difficult tire beads may require the use of a "Cheater Pipe" to extend the leverage on the breaker arm. The Pro, and the JrPro come with extra long, extra heavy duty breaker arm for maximum leverage.

Place rear dogged block in the hole Marked by the Yellow Arrow when using bead breaker.

Wheel Lock

Tires with stiff sidewalls may require the use of three (3) ExtraHand, Clamps that we sell to pre-compress the tire bead away from edge of the rim. The XtraHand clamps separate the tire from wheel for clearance when clamping the wheel into the No-Mar locking blocks. Each XtraHand clamp will be on the wheel positioned next to each of the No-Mar clamping blocks. (see Videos)

Use of small wood blocks (approx. 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 2 1/2") may be helpful when dealing with stiff-walled touring tires. The blocks are inserted between tire bead and rim edge while rotating Mount end of M/D bar for final bead stretch. The blocks help keep the bead toward center of the wheel for maximum tire/rim clearance.

No-Mar dogged blocks- Each block aligns with holes in frame arms and lock in by gravity and when cam lock force is applied, the dogged blocks locking pins, with grooves, engage the tube frame and self lock into the frame, preventing them from lifting.

The dogged blocks can be lifted and rotated to offer 4 separate size adjustments each. EXAMPLE: if your locking a 17" wheel, then you would use the 16" (indicates a range of 16"-19") peg hole as marked on the side of the frame in yellow. In conjunction with the hole positions in the frame arms, you will be able to lock any size wheel within the specified range of your changer model. TIP: when ratio of blocks is such that it seems like wheel barely fits, your hole and dogged block position is probably right. Just push wheel into dogged blocks horizontally to engage locking pins in the frame arms,they spread up to 1/4" overall, then rotate locking cam counterclockwise until wheel is firmly locked. Double-check that both dogged blocks and the Locking Cam are surely engaged on the edge of the wheel rim before proceeding. (see Videos)

Locking Cam with faceted adjustment. Begin engagement of wheel at widest adjustment on block. Rotate cam with handle counterclockwise until wheel is firmly locked onto machine frame. The cam squeeze range is approx 1/2". Wheel grip is achieved through friction of the Non Marring Blocks on edge of wheels.

Tire Warmer

Still having trouble getting those tough to manipulate tires on your rim? Try putting your tires in the sun for a bit, or even better, grab a tire warmer and let your rubber tire warm up a bit. Warm rubber stretches better than cold!

Carbon Fiber Wheels

We have changed a number of carbon fiber wheels with great success. Absolutely NO damage, No creaking, cracking, rub marks, scratches - Nothing. We fully engaged the locking cam from a tight fit in the Locking Blocks to full clamp position. Wheel had maybe 1" of rotational slippage while wrestling on a tight tolerance wheel/tire ratio.

It is possible to use a nylon strap or tie down strap to prevent wheel slippage for over-cautious users that don't want to stomach maximum clamp pressure. The Mount/Demount Bar glides around the edge of the wheel. The important point to remember when using this bar on Carbon fiber wheels is the Beginning Demount.

Be sure to ease tire bead toward Valley of the wheel rim at 2:00 (very Important ! See Videos) when insertion of single end of M/D Bar at 8:00 of machine frame (the Upright Rear Post being 12 o'clock). Ease the bar over carefully, ensuring that you have hooked the bead, and pulled it upward, also hooking the rim (Very Important ! See Videos).

You should have no problems. Remember Carbon Fiber wheels may have a closer wheel / Tire size ratio (They fit Tighter) than most stock sportbike wheels. (What were they thinking?)

Patented wheel lock System

No-Mar dogged blocks- Each block aligns with holes in frame arms and lock in by gravity and when cam lock force is applied, the dogged blocks locking pins, with grooves, engage the tube frame and self lock into the frame, preventing them from lifting.

The dogged blocks can be lifted and rotated to offer 4 separate size adjustments each. EXAMPLE: if your locking a 17" wheel, then you would use the 16" (indicates a range of 16"-19") peg hole as marked on the side of the frame in yellow.

In conjunction with the hole positions in the frame arms, you will be able to lock any size wheel within the specified range of your changer model. TIP: when ratio of blocks is such that it seems like wheel barely fits, your hole and dogged block position is probably right. Just push wheel into dogged blocks horizontally to engage locking pins in the frame arms,they spread up to 1/4" overall, then rotate locking cam counterclockwise until wheel is firmly locked. Double-check that both dogged blocks and the Locking Cam are surely engaged on the edge of the wheel rim before proceeding. (see Videos)

Locking Cam with faceted adjustment. Begin engagement of wheel at widest adjustment on block. Rotate cam with handle counterclockwise until wheel is firmly locked onto machine frame. The cam squeeze range is approx 1/2". Wheel grip is achieved through friction of the Non Marring Blocks on edge of wheels.