FAQ

FAQ

I broke the Demount tip on the bar the first time used it the tire changer.
The Demount tip is designed to break if you use the mount/demount bar like a prybar (Incorrectly). It is used to separate the tire from the rim in a rotating direction. You still need to squash the tire down AND pull the tire up into the drop center opposite the bar end BEFORE you lay the bar over the wheel (Or you will break the tip) It is supposed to do that so you don't mess up the wheel or tear the tire bead. Additionally the bar end needs to be "Drawn toward the sky" before laying it over. You will never bend a tip this way.
Using our tire lube as shown is super helpful. Also understand if your tire or Mount demount bar is not slipping around a little you may need to get some lube on it. On a taller sidewall it is helpful to spray a little tire lube mist on the sidewall of the tire so that the bar end does not get a friction lock on the tire. Equally important to use the tire lube paste inside the tire where it slips over the face of the rim. That is where most of the friction is as well as the drop center of the rim so that the tire will slide into it for clearance without a lot of work.
I have reports of one hundred tire removals on GL1800 tires. I wouldn't expect more than a dozen on Goldwing tires in our shops however we use the No-Mar Mount demount bars in our stores and only change tips every few hundred tires. If your bending them your using it wrong, sorry to say.. We can only hope you read the diagrams, instructions and watch the videos. All the information is there for relatively easy work.
A list of a few problem tires or wheels:
BMW- F650 Front 21"
Triumph Rocket III
All Carrozzeria wheels
Suzuki Burgman Scooter
Dunlop Elite 3 250 wide
Aftermarket rims with self sealing band around spokes
Aftermarket rims with no distinct drop center especially wide 250-300
Monster 30" thru 33" diameter
Dirtbike tires usually require Tire Irons not the Mount/Demount bar.
GL1800 Rear requires using our SpoonBars for installation.

If you are dealing with one of these it will take a good technique and/or a helper.
It can be frustrating jumping into a technique which you are not acquainted with. Usually the Lay Person gets it right the first time and the Seasoned Mechanic has troubles because they learned on another machine and have certain habits to break.

I have a race car with double bead lock wheels and I am looking for a good set of tire changing spoons. What I am finding is there is a lot of motorcycle tools. Will these tools wore for car tires? The rims are 15x10 and typically mounting a 275/60/15 drag radial tire (similar compound to a motorcycle tire).

The Standard spoons we sell will work (Fit). Our Larger "SpoonBars" will probably install them as I have seen them used in Nascar Pits. Our Mount/Demount bar would remove them and may even install them depending on the depth of the drop center of the wheel itself. Most automotive tires are easier to change than MC however certain rims can be a SOB for Powered changers as well. Lighter weight people should not attempt to change certain tires as they do not have the body weight to compress the sidewalls. If you don't compress the sidewalls you either will not get the tire off or on OR you can damage the bead area of the tire.
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I had bought the Classic Model Tire Changer specifically to change the tires on my 2011 HD Roadking motorcycle. However, when I went to change the rear tire, I noticed that the center post would not fit through the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing fits a 1-inch axle, but the Classic's center post is just a little over 1-inch in diameter. Do you have a center post that is a little smaller in diameter that will fit through the wheel bearing? Three-quarter inch or 7/8-inch diameter perhaps?

The center post was not intended to go through bearings generally. Only the pin at the end of the post will go in the bearing and the plastic plug will rest on top of the bearing. Drop the center post into the bearing then lift the hinge arm to the stop before tightening the knob. This will pre-load the center post between the wheel bearing and the frame of the machine. The pin in the center post is eccentrically located for more wiggle room. Some wheels require offset block position like a lot of 19" ones and only a few could require you to loosen the set screws on the back frame to swing the arm. Our Jr. Pro has a swinging arm left to right. Classic does not but can get the job done. Some large bearing sport bike wheels and single side swing arm wheels will allow the center post to pass through. Then it is fine to drop it down through to the frame. Always be sure to set your changer up so that center post can index the frame arm Y while being clamped in the hinge arm. Taller adjustments are for wheels over 200 wide.


I have a 2014 BMW GS with Wire Wheels with TIRE PRESSURE MONITORS mounted inside the rim. I’ll be mounting Michelin Pilot Road 4 Trail tires next week and would like your advice/guidance as to anything special that I should do to prevent damaging the monitors on the inside of the rim when removing my current tires.

See our BMW F 650 tire change video. Treat the pressure monitor like the valve stem location of a Tube tire. Clamp wheel with pressure monitor at about 10:00. Insert bar around 8:00. Remove first half of tire. Either lift tire up over monitor while beginning the bar tip on second portion of tire change or Rotate wheel to get monitor at 3:00 position. Either will work around the monitor or remove tire before monitor can interfere. When installing push tire toward monitor for first half and position monitor at 3:00 for second half.


Today I managed to put a set of Heidenau K60 on my fairly new 1200GS. I used a harbor freight machine and needless to say I am disgusted with the condition of my wheels now. So I find your tire changer but it looks like if I want to mount K60 tires on a GS then I would have to buy a different set of locking blocks. Did I see this correctly? If I purchased a new machine would I also have to purchase the posi-clamps? If I am reading this right they are only for allowing more sidewall room. Do they hold wheels better than the blocks that come with Classic changer?

You are somewhat correct. The K 60 has such a stiff side wall that tire compression in our Black Clamping blocks makes it much more difficult to work the top half of the tire as they hold the bottom of the tire up into the drop center, which is very helpful for most tire changes but Off road style not. Our Posi-Clamps are designed for off road and very "Puffed out" style sidewalls. The Dog and Cam blocks clamp wheels much tighter however the Posi-Clamps are adequate for what you are dealing with. You would need to switch the clamping spools to the "Tall" spools for the thicker GS wheel. The spools can not crack or tear. None of the UHMW Polyethylene we use for our contact surfaces can break. Keep the clamps clean and free from excessive tire lube and dirt and your wheel should grip well and never be damaged. Our Cycle Hill tire changer comes with the Posi-Clamps standard, is our best selling unit however realize the smaller non-case hardened arms will deflect at some point and only allow you to clamp a wheel "so tight". The Polyethylene is a "Self Lubricating plastic" so clamping a wheel with intent to prevent rotation requires a lot of clamping force. Giving the tire a place to go and forcing it into the drop center while using our Mount/Demount bar greatly reduces rotational force required to install the tires.

IE; Posi-Clamps allow tire do be manipulated a little better. Since they do not push the tire up so you must realize that during the tire change it may be necessary to coax the bottom of the tire up into the drop center as to not get hung up on the bead seating area of the rim or the tire will not shift horizontally for adequate clearance on the top side. Once both sides are guided into the drop center the tire will shift sideways slightly allowing room for tire to slip over the rim.


I have a 2014 BMW GS with Wire Wheels currently mounted with tubeless Anakee 3 tires. The spokes on this wheel terminate on the outside of the rim as opposed to the inside thereby allowing a tubeless tire to be mounted. My plan is to mount Michelin Pilot Road 4 Trail, Tourance Next, or another set of Anakee 3’s. Will the Cam-Blocks that come with the Classic be sufficient to change to these tires, or will I need a set of Posi-Clamps since the rim appears to be somewhat “different” than a standard cast wheel? I also have a 2011 Suzuki 650 ABS V-Strom with CAST wheels currently mounted with a tubeless OEM tires. My plan is to mount Michelin Pilot Road 4 Trail, Tourance Next, or Anakee 3’s. Will the Cam-Blocks that come with the Classic be sufficient to change to these tires, or will I need a set of Posi-Clamps?

You will not require our Posi-Clamps. The Blocks will work just fine.


The wheel will rotate when it's under a load mounting a new tire with the Cycle Hill changer. Is there an accessory or replacement part that will keep the rim from rotating in the holders?

The Cycle Hill changer can only hold a wheel so tight before the frame arms deflect and clamping limit is reached. Our Standard No-Mar line will clamp wheels more rigidly but will not prevent wheel rotation under extraordinary rotational force. The idea is to not require much rotational force. That is done by collapsing the tire ALOT to give it a place to go. Also using the lubes as we show in the videos. Dry tires will not go on easily and tires with the lube in the wrong place are not much help either. If you are dealing with Sport or Sport touring tires they should be the easies to install. You need to push the tire down a couple of inches at least while rotating the bar.


How do I position my BMW K1300S wheel on the changer blocks when mounting/demounting a tire so I don't damage the sensor?

The blocks can not damage your sensor or get in the way! Position sensor at 8:00 for removal of first half of tire. Rotate it to 3:00 for removal of second half. Push new tire on hooking tire under sensor and pushing toward 9:00. Install with M/D bar. Tire will complete installation with bar end stopping before Sensor interference. Treat it just like the valve stem we show for tube installation in BMW F650 tire change video with Mount Demount bar.


Which tire changer will accommodate the single sided swingarm wheels from a 2013 Ducati Monster 1100 evo?

They all will work however I suggest our "Classic Model". Range 10-21" up to 250 wide. Waist High bead breaking Can not bend brake rotors (Front in your case). Lifetime warranty- American made. It should be the perfect tire changer for you. If you get the wheel balancer or the "Classic Model Ultimate package" with the wheel balancer you will need to add the large cone adapter ($84) to work on your rear wheel.

**Note: Some Monster rear wheels have an off center drop center. Wheel must be clamped in with deep drop center toward the top of the wheel or you may not get the tire off. Much like a car or ATV wheel.


Wheel balancing out in different spots?

Check to see if the rod is bent. Roll it on the balancer and see if it has a wobble in it. Also be sure the cones are fitting within the hole and not on the flares of the lug nut holes in the wheel. Wheel should be as far to one side of the balancer as possible to avoid unnecessary stress in the middle of the rod for best results and preservation of the rod while moving it onto the balancer with wheel load weight. Other variables are bent wheel- Spin to check for runout. Tire bead not seated. Sometimes a section of tire bead is not popped into the bead seat area. Most likely it is either the cones not fitted correctly for your situation or rod is bent. I am assuming we are discussing the rear wheel. If you are describing the front be sure there are NO spacers inside the dust seals or you will get exactly what you are describing as well. Metal cones must be used in bearings. Large cones may not seat in dust seals of front wheels and give erratic readings. Some bikes have tapered wheel bearings. Older models. You must use both steel and threaded cones combined. Threaded cones pre-load steel cones thrusting into bearing pre-loading it. No set screws are used in this situation.


Difficulty changing dual sport tires on a BMW GS Adventure with spoked wheels, using a Classic model and the MD Bar

It should not be a problem unless you are installing Heidenau K60 tires then you need the posi-Clamps. All other tires should be fairly easy on that one. Be sure to pull the bottom of the tire up to get both tire beads into the drop center or the tire will not shift for clearance. Do not use our SpoonBars or you may damage the tire bead cable and will probably bend the SpoonBars. 21" front wheels will probably require the Posi-Clamps as the M/D bar may not fit with offroad tires and that narrow of a wheel. The Posi-Clamps allow the bottom or the tire to drop down and do not push up the tire for maximum clearance for tools. Dog and Cam blocks allow you to break the bead in a manner safe for rotors and benefit while changing Standard, Sport and sport touring because it helps to hold the tire up into the drop center on the bottom for tire shift during changing.


Correct tire changer for a BMW R1200R

The Cycle Hill can work for you however in my opinion is not the best choice for sport touring tires. The frame is more flexible and will only clamp wheels so tight. The beadbreaker is at ground level and front rotors are more easily bent. It comes with the ATV beadbreaker. Our Scratchproof Beadbreaker is more suitable for breaking the beads without damage to the wheel.

Our Classic Model tire changer with three Xtra Hand Clamps would be a much better choice and it has a Lifetime warranty on all of the parts even the tips on the bar. See our video- K12S tire change. Your tire would be in that class. I suspect you will be using at least the 180/55 Spec tire which has a much heavier carcass than a general replacement 180/55. The wheel will move all around on you in the Cycle Hill clamps. It really requires a more rigid wheel clamp to deal with your wheels and tires.


How to locate TPS valves

If you watch our BMW F650 tire change with a tube, you would locate the sensor at the same points we show the Valve stem location of a tube type tire change. The sensor should be near the start location where you insert teh M/D bar but do not insert directly at the sensor location. Rotate wheel to position sensor at 3:00. Remove second half of tire. Wheel remains in that position remainder of tire change. You may be pushing the tire on the rim initially from the 3:00 toward 9:00 direction hooking tire under sensor to begin.


I need a hitch mount and floor mount. Will your classic model do everything I need, or will I need posiclamps and xtrahand as well?

2009 Kawasaki Voyager 1700 and use Dunlop E3 160/80B16 & MT90B16 tires, Michelin Commander2 180/65B16 & 130/90B16 and a KLR650 with 17" and 21" wheels.

I recommend our Classic Model, Posi-Clamp set, two 16" spoonbars and two 21" SpoonBars. Your 180/65 tire will probably install like the Wing depending on the internal shape of the rim. If it is a HD dresser with 180/65 then it will. If you do not lube the tire as we show in our videos with our Lube I guarantee it will not go on easily. Dynabeads have been proven not to work. If you wheel really needs a lot of weight to balance I recommend static balancing or you will get shaking and wear out your suspension. You may not feel the shaking but the suspension will wear prematurely. I believe that is what is really going on with the beads. The slight wheel vibration is muted by the excellent modern day suspensions and the riders don't feel the subtleties unless it is a more extreme case.

Tire manufacturers regularly discourage the use of the beads and liquid balancing products. Motorcycle Consumer News , years ago disproved the beads as a waste of money and time. Beads would stick to tire lube unless wiped away. Probably not so practical once second half of tire is installed and that is the side you really need lube on to install. We get customers regularly who are complaining of shaking wheels and request us to remove them and balance their wheels in our MotoTireUSA store. We service about 2000 motorcycles per year. If the Dynabeads were proven to work we would sell them as an upgrade and all racing organizations and factory teams would use them. We only sell what is guaranteed to work.

Our tools work well because of a concert of techniques, leverage, and proper Lubrication technique combined with the best products available. I know people that insist the beads work and that is fine. I will not argue with them but if you are going to work dumb you better be tough. Tire lube in the correct location is essential for an easier tire change. Our Video Library shows a complete list of technical videos for all sorts of vehicles. It is also used as a learning tool in several mainstream Motorcycle Training schools. You can click our video link for streaming videos on-line.


How well does the Classic model break down for traveling?

Our Roll-On base may work and store better for you in an RV or it will be laying on the floor with a hitch mount bracket attached and be more cumbersome unless you have a lot of under storage. The Posi-Clamps I recommended for the KLR if you are using knobby tires or if it is a heavy cruiser like Some Harley and GL1800. A few metrics need them if the tire is so stiff it can not be compressed into the Dog and cam blocks to clamp into the machine.


Do your tire changers work for single-sided swingarms?

Single side swingarm wheels are no different. Some Ducati have offset drop center on wheel and it must be toward the top of the wheel when clamped in the units. Dyna Beads do not work. We remove them at our Mototire store upon request regularly due to shaking wheels. They are in all of the carpets. See Motorcycle Consumer News reviews on line. Use them if you want. They will also stick to the tire lube you need to install the tires easily.


What is the $200 difference between the Classic and Jr. Pro?

We have a comparison chart on the website to compare all specs side by side. Classic changes 10 - 21" breaks beads up to 250- Jr Pro 7-24 up to 360- , Heavier Beadbreaker on Jr Pro for ATV, Car , truck and Goldwing tires. Jr. Pro has heavier frame, sliding articulating arm and comes with three xtra hand clamps and floor kit where Classic does not. See our intro video.


Does the No-Mar Tire Changer work on dirt bike tires?

Our changers were designed for changing tubeless tires, but parts of tubed dirt bike changes can be accomplished. Realize that on a narrow rim, the mount/demount 2 prong end may be ineffective for remounting the tire. The width of the tips prohibit insertion on the narrow ones (It won't fit). The changer can break the beads and hold the rim for parts of the change. You can probably lock any wheel into the changer. It's a matter of if there's enough room left to get a M/D bar tip in there. Removal can usually be successful with the bar because that tip is narrower only if your rim locks are completely loosened and driven out toward the tube as to not interfere with the bar tip rotating around.

PLEASE NOTE: You will need tire spoons when changing a tire with bead locks. Please see our videos for complete instructions.

I prefer standard spoons with the typical narrow dirt bike tire since you need to work both sides with the rim locks. You will find the wheel lock blocks work well as a changing platform for using the spoons. Wider dual sport the changer works well as well as tube type Cruiser wheels. The SpoonBars work well for installing the very non-pliable type tires, street and off road. Very hard sidewalls that resist sliding down into the relief valley of the rim will be difficult to install with the M/D bar but easy with the SpoonBars and block technique we show on the Goldwing tire change w/SpoonBar video instructions. These type of tires need to be depressed down 3/4", 180 degrees around before they can shift sideways into the relief valley for installation clearance otherwise you will be attempting to stretch the unstretchable. Even stiff sport tires, such as on a Hyabusa, install better with our and sport bike tires are a snap. Using the techniques we emphasize and proper tire lube techniques which we describe, all our customers are enjoying the use of our changers. We get daily feedback from users regarding the success they have had and the gratitude for making such great products.


How much do the machines weigh?

The Pro Model weighs about 130lbs. The JrPro weighs around 100lbs. and the Classic weighs in at 70lbs. The difference is in the amount, and caliber of material used.


Do you sell wheel balancers?

YES! Check out our Balancer and our unique cone sets in the Accessories area of our web site.


Are your machines made in the USA?

YES! All American steel, and paint. Although the raw plastic may come from Canada depending on our distributor.


What is the widest tire you can mount on your machine?

The Classic Model is shipped with an adjustable rear post for up to 11" wide tires. This affects the bead breaker clearance the most. There is a full 17" of bead breaker clearness on the Jr. Pro Model for up to 17" wide tires. 17" wide?? Crazy!

The ProModel is shipped with a rear post that allows for up to 16 1/2" wide tires. The bead breaker clearance is adjustable via the stop collars on the arm post. Yes, car tires are easy to do on this machine. We have a 255mm Corvette wheel we change for demos on a regular basis.


Have you had any complaints?

#1 complaint: "Lack of assembly instructions sent with the machines."- We now have assembly instructions shipped with every changer. Photo sheet with bolt diagram.

#2 complaint " My bar is getting stuck and I can't get this tire on all the way. What am I doing wrong?" The solution is in the lubrication which is now described in the Tips & Techniques section. See: "Mount / Demount Bar" and our new videos.

Our Testimonials FAR out way any complaints we might get, however we pay the same attention to both, as they are equally important. My favorite one is from the guy in Kansas City that called the day after he received his full changer system in the mail and said "It's so beautiful, I don't want to use it." Now he was probably exaggerating a bit in order to pay us a compliment. But it still sounds good!


I can buy a Harbor Freight changer for $120. Why does yours cost more?

Quality and Versatility - it is a far superior piece of professional equipment. Well, let's compare apples to oranges: Harbor Freight - Made in China? No-Mar - made in USA. Harbor Freight - twists and shouts. No-Mar - A precision tool made to last. Harbor Freight - Metal jaws dig into wheel. God forbid the wheel slips in the clamp then you have to use their mount demount bar to further abuse the other side of the wheel. You can't wipe off those scratches. No-Mar - Patented non-marring clamping system with mount / demount bar and non-marring beadbreaker assure you of SAFE EASY tire changes, AND you have a Limited Lifetime Warranty and parts replacement option.


What's the difference between No-Mar Tire Changers, Harbor Freight and Coats 220 Manual changers?

Our machine cannot scratch your wheels (When used correctly). This is the most important thing in our minds as it is the aim of our company to offer a completely safe product that will perform Scratch Proof tire changes, every time. Also, we want every motorcycle enthusiast to want, need, and be able to afford our products. Comparing to Harbor Freight style machines (there are a couple others out there) with the traditional wheel vice and all metal bar, isn't a fair comparison. What do you want to trust with your expensive wheels. Our machine is easy to use. The easiest tires to change are sport bike and shorter side-walled tires. The stiff touring tires are a bit more work but if you follow our Tips & Techniques you will change them successfully with a little more effort and all Scratch Proof.

You mentioned the Coats 220 Manual changer. This is a common heavy-duty machine and has been widely purchased by shops and individuals for quite a while. Long enough for a lot of scratched wheels and broken wheel vices. 3 out of the 4 machines I've known people to own (and have owned myself) have broken the metal jaw assembly. Wheel slippage, expensive failing jaw protectors, expensive M/D bar protectors and a head rush while sweating and holding a wheel on my toes with a tripled chunk of cardboard to break the tire beads have helped me to engineer the solution to everybody's Coats and Harbor Freight frustration.


How do you adjust for different wheel sizes?

Adjusting for wheel size is simple. See our Tips & Techniques for a better understanding of the process. Most people will usually change 1 or 2 different sized tires. When you find the correct setting, usually after 2 or 3 trial and errors, you can mark the blocks with a black pen for future reference. Our locking system has a smaller range between adjustments than conventional wheel vices. One style 17" wheel can vary as much as 3/4" from another. Once you establish your adjustments, wheel clamping is a "no brainer" and faster!


Do the mounting blocks have enough clearance for sprockets on sport bikes?

Modern sport bike sprockets are bolted to a "Cush Drive" holder. You pull that out before you deal with it. There would be room for it but it will most likely fall out. Be careful to note the spacer in-between it and the wheel bearing for relocating it correctly. Balance wheels with roller bearings and removable race with the race in but on all others be sure to remove the spacers or your balance will be off. Also remove the rubber cush drive blocks if they are loose.


Will this machine clamp in my Tubless GS wheel with spokes?

Yes, and nicely we might add. We suggest using our SpoonBars for installing some of the tires for that bike. If you are using a non pliable or stiffer or knobby style tires, the bars will install them much easier than the M/D bar. Less than a minute.


Will this remove a Harley Front tire 100/90R19 and Rear tire 130/90R16?

Yes. It sounds like possibly Dunlop D 404 front or maybe an Elite 2 or 3 tire type on the rear, but of course a matched set. Yes again. The Mount / Demount bar will remove both of those tires even with tubes. It may be possible to install them with the 2 prong end of the M/D bar but I would suspect it would be much easier to install them with our SpoonBars as shown on the Goldwing tire change video. If the tire is non-pliable or tight tolerance (Like most Tube type tires) the SpoonBars are the most appropriate tool to use putting them back on. It should take about 1 minute after you do a couple. You will spend more time cleaning the wheel, lubing the wheel & tire, and messing with the tubes than actually taking the tire off and putting it back on.

The XtraHand clamps will be most helpful in pre-compressing the tire to allow you to lock the wheel into the flat top blocks reducing the effort to compress the tire. Our changer system was designed to allow 1 person to change tires without assistance and to provide a scratch proof ethod in which to do so.


What are the differences between your models?

The differences are: The Pro Model center post does not need to index the center of the wheels. It is easier to use with only a "T" pin to pull to release the arm to hinge aside. It self locks when moved back into position. This model is extra heavy duty, and meant to be stationary, although some of our customers to take it on the road with them.

The Jr. Pro Model has more adjustments but is portable. Personally, I would rather mount a Hitch Receiver outside the trailer (in the wheel well, or where ever it can be welded on) and plug the changer in on the side, using our HitchMount and the Classic Model, or the Jr. Pro Model. It is far too congested inside most race trailers, especially when it rains. Most people have pull off awnings or butt an "Easy Up" portable tent next to the smaller trailers anyway so you would be covered in he rain.

Actually the Classic Model will do what you need unless you are doing Scooter and ATV wheels less than 10" or truck tires over 31" Diameter. Trailer and automotive tires will usually fit on the classic. The Classic Model may be dwarfed by the other two but is still a hefty machine. The quality and strength are all the same. Just the range, and the articulation of the machine changes. The Classic Model, when mounted to the floor, needs to be slightly farther away from the wall behind it compared to the Jr. Pro Model.


Should I use XtraHand clamps for extra-stiff tires?

The XtraHand clamps probably won't help. They would be too thick. One wood block 3/4" thick would work to relieve the tire. Two of the SpoonBars and 1 YellowThing Beadkeeper would do the trick. Some tires require the bars. Actually you can see in our FAQ'S we recommend standard spoons for dirt tires. We are working on a rim protector system for those applications. Most tires spooned on with our system require only 2 bars if used with the beadkeeper. It also works very well with the Mount / Demount bar when installing the tires to keep the bead from creaping. See our newest video "Monster 360 Tire Change" we show another use for the SpoonBars and the handle on the M/D bar and the YellowThing in use. That tire is probably the hardest sidewall we have ever seen. Worse than Dunlop E3.


How do you get the beads to lock for tire inflation?

You should fill the tire without the valve core in the valve. Valve core wrenches come with most of our tool packages ($3 if purchased separately). The lubrication technique we show applying the tire lube to the "Drop Center" portion of the rims aids in the easy release of the tire into the bead seat area. Some tires are troublesome but not most. Maybe one in 30 and it depends on what you have. Some Harley rear tires and some dual sport tires tend to be problematic.

We travel with a "one gallon" tank and mini compressor and usually get the job done. Having more volume in the compresor tank is the key. You need a quick volume of air to enter the tire. Regular air chucks have restriction. (The spring pin valve you see at the tip) They also get stuck on the valve stem if the cores aren't inside. Fast flow fill valves work the best. Ours is made in Italy and includes a gauge ($54 with 1 year warranty).


Why won't my wheel lock in the blocks?

By rotating the 2 locking blocks, you are able to fine tune the grip range. If you find your wheel is just a bit loose, or a hare too tight, then adjust ONE of the locking blocks by rotating it to the next setting. Both locking blocks DO NOT have to be in the same position; which allows for even more 'tuning' range for gripping any wheel. See our video on Locking Block Theory for more information.


Can your balancer balance car tires?

The large cones will balance automotive tires. Most. There are some Suburu and truck wheels with larger holes. We actually have a larger cones set in production along with a larger balancer. We get the questions all of the time and have been selling parts un-assembled for people to modify and weld their own Monster balancers. Our new automotive balancer will retail for $199 and the cone set will be near $99 retail. The new balancer is 4" taller and 4" wider. We don't have the parts in yet but it should come together in the next 4 weeks. The larger cone will also have a heavier threaded rod for less flex with the heavy wheels.


What is the largest diameter motorcycle tire you can balance?

Our balancer will balance every 21" motorcycle wheel and tire combo we know.


What 'abec' number spec are the bearings that are used in the balancer?

ABEC specs are relevant only for "High Speed" use. They are irrevelent in this application. Our bearings have standard specs, and the dual action of the bearing on the shoulder bolts give it excellent sensitivity. Better than 1/16 of an ounce accuracy. Statically speaking, with the weight of a wheel and tire, That is supurb. We balance AMA Pro Race wheels with them at National races. The balancer was designed to be a rugged, reliable, portable balancer that does not require to be level and should not fail in a "Dirty" environment.


I need a cheap tire changer to change only dirt bike tires

Our machine will work for you although it is not "Cheap". Our machines are well made and considered "Top of the line" in the industry. We have attachments to allow use for Dirt bikes, see our rim clamp set and video changing dirt bike wheel. Realize with the bead locks you will probably use tire spoons. That will be the way to install the tire around the devices. There is no other way. You will be able to break the beads, lock in the rims, probably remove the tire with the bead locks loosened and pushed up into the tire. The Mount/ Demount bar will probably be ineffective to install them. The bead locks would interfere.

It should only take you a couple of minutes per tire with practice. The non-stem digging method on our video will save time and frustration as well. We have an extensive video library for all types of wheels and tires. Check out our video on our Rim Clamps, and our dirt bike tire video. The classic models should be sufficient with rim clamp set and a few spoons. Check out our Rim Clamp Set for more info.


How hard are rear wheel slicks to change?

They have a much heavier side carcass. The location of your valve stem may be a problem. Taking off, put at 10:00 and putting on, at 2:00. If they are custom wheels with a more shallow drop center like Carrozeria they may not go on unless you locate the stem to a position where it does not interfere with the tire moving into the drop center of the rim.

The key is in lubing the drop center of the rim well with "Lube Paste" and lube the inside edge of the tire with lube paste where it will slide down and make contact with the drop center between 3:00 to 9:00 clockwise, be sure the "Handle" is on your mount/demount bar and you are pushing the bar with your hip. This will allow your "Left hand" to be free to collapse the tire into the drop center. You really need to push the drop center "way down" into the drop center. That is where you are getting your clearance. Expect the tire to "require" itself to fold under for clearance.

Last, the place to lube in the underside of the tire where it is pulling over the rim between 10:00 and 2:00 clockwise. That is where most of the friction is pulling over the rim. They go on. They are much like a Bridgestone Battalax on a Sport touring bike like a FJR or BMW -LT. Whe you get used to how they need to move they get much easier to deal with. The yellow thing tool, sometimes can get in the way of clearance. Take it off mid-way if you think it is a problem. I sometimes get calls about the same thing with our Xtra hand clamps. If you were to try to use them the same way, they would not work so well with Sportbike tires.


Dunlap Pro Pit crew says the wheel I balanced was off. How could that be?

I don't trust the accuracy of the straight tubes they use in the Pro pits for balancing. I prefer the cones. If you think something went wrong, check to be sure your balancer rod is straight. Roll it on some granite or flat glass or check with a dial indicator. Check to see if your cones have been stretched from over use or over-tightening. Your cones should fit snugly on the rod. Those are the only two variables there can be in the equipment.

Seating the cones in the wheel would be something to check. If there was a spacer left in it will probably be off. If you used the large cones on a GSXR wheel and seated the cone into the seal it would probably be off. If lube was applied to the bead seat area of the tire or rim and the tire "Slipped" under acceleration, it would probably be off. I recommend our new medium cones for all newer sport bikes over the large ones. They fit into the bearings correctly and are easy to use. If any parts are worn, defective or damaged, please send them back to us for free replacement under lifetime warranty.

Another possible cause of a "shake", actually "headshake" may be your steering head bearings loose or worn. Sometimes "headshake" can be interpreted as wheel balance problems.


Do you sell the cam blocks separately, and what do they cost?

They have a value of $120, and there is a lifetime warranty on them, that is why we do not sell them separately. However, if you have a Coats adapter with Rim Clamp Set, we will sell you a set of blocks with proof of purchase. You would need to call the order in. If you have a warranty issue with existing blocks, just call us.


I have some large off road Goodyear sprint car tires tires with very flexable side walls. The rim is 15" in diameter and 18" wide. With the tire mounted the outside diameter of the tire is 33", The tread with of these tires is 18" and with the tire inflated the side wall bulges out to 21", deflated side walls are as wide as the tread 18". Will this size tire fit in the basic machine? Is there enough room left for the bead breaker to work? I also have some sports bike front and rears to be mounted, of coarse the No Mar system will work on those tires.

The Classic Model bead breaker clearance is 10-1/2". Jr. Pro and Pro Model are 16-1/2" when used with black blocks as press platen. If the rim doesn't matter as much (race wheels are usually beat up a bit) you can remove the blocks for additional 3" clearance. That would give you 19-1/2" which would work for you. The Jr Pro Model has a standard schedule 40 pipe as a back post. Any pipe could substitute given unlimited beadbreak clearance. I would recommend our ATV beadbreaker for the soft collapsable sidewall and leave 5psi in the tire. Break the bead on the "non-offset" side of the drop center for the rim. It is the most difficult with the slight taper. The wheel will be clamped in with the drop center toward the top of the rim while in the changer or the tires will never come off. They should be easy. We are getting ready to show a H2 tire change as a new video. They are easy as long as they are not "run-flat" type tires.

Outside diameter clearance of the Jr. Pro is 35" and the Pro Model is 42" when clamping the wheel into the unit. The beadbreaker throat clearance will be hindered on your 33" O.D. with the small rim. The Pro would work better for that but does not have an unlimited beadbreak clearance.

We can customize a Pro Model for you and add height for more clearance no extra charge. It would just take a couple of days before it could ship out. We would need to provide you with a longer center post for the sportbike wheels to work with it. It would have enamel paint instead of the regular powder coat. Unless you wait a month before our next batch goes to PC.


I've watched all of the videos, and I really don't find anything that gives me a sense that the No-Mar changer can be used on sport touring tires. Do you have any experience with being able to change tires on a Kawasaki Concours? I use Avon tires 120/70-18 Front & 150/80-16 Rear. I'd have a hard time justifying the changer if I still needed to remove and install the tires using the spoon bars.

Sport touring tires should be a snap with our mount/demount bar only. You really don't need the Spoonbars at all. A yellow thing tool and a set of Xtra hand clamps let you manipulate the stiffer sport touring tires easily. See our video BMW-K12S with Metzeler Roadtek Z6 tire. A perfect example of a sport touring tire and probably the toughest combo of rim and tire. Quite easy when observing all of the detail we demonstrate.

Concours tire- Easy. If you lube the "rim" and "tire" the way we show in the videos, they go on quite easy. Skip a step or do it your "Old way" and the results will not be the same. Note: Our "SpoonBars" were designed for only installation of very stiff tires. Dunlop E3 60's. Your tires do not match that design. They are nearly a run-flat style tire on the Goldwing which the bars were designed to install. I had a gentleman call today to order 2 spoonbars to install his BMW LT tires. He said he had a tough time installing them with our mount/demount bar. I tried to reason with him to convince him otherwise, because I know that is quite an easy tire to install with our M/D bar. Probably he was not using the lubes the way we show or relieving the tire as required. He bought the SpoonBars anyway but they really were not necessary. Sue here can install the Concours tires. She put on a rear at Daytona this year, and she only weighs 115 lbs.(She put on some weight). Get a Classic model, yellow thing tool, and 3 Xtra hand clamps. A great combo for your needs. See one of our packages for a better deal with a balancer.


How does the No-Mar tire changer work with regular old spoked wheels with tubed tires. Say, an old Honda 400 that has spoked wheels?

You should use our "Rim Clamp Set" designed for dirt bikes, but works well on all very narrow rims. Only 1/8" tire compression required. They grip all wheels exceptionally well.


I have the Jr. Pro shipped from Spain to England, the first tyre (tire) I changed was a battle-axe, the problem I experienced was the tyre slipping around the wheel. Was this because I used too much lube? This weekend I changed a front dunlop 208 and I used less lube but found one of the prongs on the mount bar kept popping out. If you can advise what I am doing wrong I would be most grateful! I know it's me because the machine is awesome.

See our K12 S BMW video - for a similiar technique - You should NOT have any lube in the bead seat area of the rim or the tire. The tire should have gripped itself near at the bottom side. See our Yellow Thing tool. It keeps the tire from creeping behind the head of the tool. You need to nearly "Completely" collapse the tire behing the head of the M/D bar. The tire may be crinkled and buckled. Next be sure the lube paste is "Behind" the bead seat area inside of the tire where it slips over the rim, especially where the tire tool gets tight.

Let me know how it goes. Be sure the "handle" is connected to the Mount/Demount bar. Your left hand should be free to collapse the tire as required.


I am mounting an Avon Storm 180/55 17 on a R1200RT BMW rear wheel. I am applying enough force to spin the tire on the wheel even with a helper. I am using plenty of lube and a tire spoon to keep the tire from spinning on the wheel to no avail. I'm trying to be patient as I am sure there must be a technique you can suggest.

Be sure to lube the "inside of the tire where the tire is pulling over the rim between 10:00 and 2:00 About where your bar is probably getting stuck. There is never "that much rotational force" required when using the correct technique. The wheel can slip if you rely on the clamps to prevent rotation. If you actually had the sort of tire that absolutely would not go on with the Mount/Demount bar then switch tools and use the SpoonBars to put it on. Your wheel tire combo does not justify SpoonBars. Be certain you have the "handle" attached to the Mount/Demount bar WHERE WE SHOW IT. Without it, it will not work that well. The handle is for your "Right" hand and is PULLED. The bar is PUSHED with your left hip. It is rotated "Clockwise". Your left hand should be COLLAPSING the tire ahead of your hip and behind the head of the bar. Lube paste, generously applied to the "Drop Center" of the rim and INSIDE the tire where it pulls over the outer edge of the rim, before you begin tire installation, is essential. The other main thing to watch is the position of the "valve stem" removal should be about 8:00 and installation should be about 2:00. The stem can make a big difference on some wheels. It prevents the tire from slipping deep into the drop center reducing the clearance it takes to pull over the rim. You will not stretch the tire. The cable in the bead area is nearly 1/4" dia or more. Some tires really fold under alot for clearance. That is why the lube on the rim is so important. THE POSITION OF YOUR LEFT HAND COLLAPSING THE TIRE PREVENTS THE TIRE FROM ROTATING to a certain degree. If you are trying to use an "Xtra hand Clamp" to prevent the tire from creeping behind the bar for the installation of the last half of the tire. That may be the problem. Our "Yellow Thing" tool does not push the tire down too far and allows the M/D bar to pass over it without mis-tracking. I have seen photos of someone's bound up tire with the black clamp installed. They remove the clamp and the tire goes on. I am not able to see what you are doing, but I know there is some simple solution , probably one I have noted. I know the tire will go on with one person without too much effort if all techniques described above are completed. We install them periodically.


After putting it off for approximately a year, I'm finally ready to purchase a tire changing machine. I would never consider a "Harbor Freight" level machine, and I've used the Coats 220 (what a pain). How would you compare your Pro or Jr. Pro with the Coats RC-50M? I will primarily be changing slicks and DOT racing tires at the track.

Our changers can't scratch wheels, bend rotors, or wear out expensive parts. They are all manual so they require some physical activity. We go the the tracks all of the time and change tires faster than the machines. With very little practice you will master the lube and bar techniques as long as you throw out all the previous experience you have had with other tools and try it our way. Our lube technique is refined. If you are not patient and only use a wet lube the way most people do with other tools, you will be doing too much work. We use a paste lube in specific places different than other tools require when installing new tires. It just works better. Watch our videos and use the same body position and all tire changes are easy. So easy most people will never go back to a powered changer. It doesn't make sense when you experience how well our tools work and the lifetime warranty will get you free parts forever. We get about 1200 changes on one de-mount tip. They all come with 3 spares.


I just received the Jr. Pro Ultimate package with the rim clamps. Just need some advice from you. The bulk of the tires I change are Dunlop Tour Elite II's and Metzler's, 130X16X90, or 140X16X85. All on stock rims, some spoked and mostly cast mags. Do you think I will be faced with only using the spoon bars for mounting the new tires (like the Gold Wing video), or do you think I should be able to use the mount/demount bar? I did my first rear tire last night, and it was a struggle for sure (learning curve I guess). I tried with the m/d bar, but no way. At the time I had not cut any small square blocks from wood yet to use, but I have since cut some for use on my next tire change. By the way, they are all Harley's which I work on. I didn't see any videos for stock Harley rims. Yes I ended up using the rim clamps too. No way I could use the locking blocks for those wheels.

The old Elite 2 should go on with the Mount/ Demount bar as well as all other tires described except Goldwing E 3 on GL 1800 rear. Be sure you are using our lubes the way we show. The tools will not work correctly without lubing the tires and rims the way we show. If your "handle" is not mounted on the M/D bar the way we show it, it will not work correctly. You will not be able to install the stiffer tires if you are trying to pull the bar while installing the tires. You must be "pushing" it with your hip using the body positioning we show in our videos. Watch the location of the valve stem on tubes. See BMW F650 and dirtbike tire change videos.

The tools will work exceptionally well using our techniques. It seems only people used to using other brand tools have troubles because they are used to doing it a different way (slightly). I just changed a Suzuki Bergman Scooter tire yesterday. The old guy who brought it in was just struggling with it on his own. We threw it on a Classic model and breezed through it. 1 minute off and on. He recognized he was not lubing the rim and tire as we did, he was not pushing the bar as we did, the handle was not in the position as our was. He couldn't believe it went on so easily. He bought a Yellow thing tool to help keep the bead from creaping. He should have good success now. True story, yesterday in our showroom.

We suggest watching the videos a few times. Watch them all. There are portions of all of the techniques that will apply in differerent situations. There really are not any tires that are troublesome if you understand the three or four techniques we describe in the videos.

Harleys are usually the easiest. They almost always have deeper drop centers on the rims. Having the rim clamp set when dealing with them is optimal. Good luck. You can always call us if you are in the middle of something you are struggling with. We can coach you through it.


I am looking at the Classic, Ultimate Package II. I am only ever going to be changing recent model harley touring tires. It looks like I'd do best following the procedure in your Goldwing video. Do you think I might be better off with the "rim clamp set" rather than the three hand clamps provided in the package, and maybe longer spoon bars as well? Can you do these substitutions and have me pay the difference?

Your Harley tires are much softer than the Goldwing tire unless you have a Police Bike. You will probably be using the Mount/ demount bar, Maybe one spoonbar to help some of those tires "On", probably the Yellow thing tool, and most likely the Rim Clamp set. It would only be few and far between to require the Spoonbars to install most Harley tires. Harley has much deeper Drop Centers built into the rims which allow the tires to move in for clearance. We actually find them more easy than most Sport tires and they are very easy with the Mount / Demount bar. If you have a Spoked wheel with the vulcanized band for Tubeless application, you will need the Spoonbars. That kind of band takes up the space you would otherwise need for the tire to move into.


Which model would you recommend for a shop (higher volume). Also, why doesn't the bar on the Pro Model engage the wheel? The Jr. Pro Model seems more stable in the videos even with a smaller bar. Lastly, do you have any videos showing breaking the bead on an old tire and wheel that's really stuck?

Our Pro Model is recommended for frequent daily shop use, so that a technition can go from a very narrow to a very wide tire with seldom adjustment. The large arm on the Pro Model supports the center pivot post while usung the Mount/Demount bar. You would notice if you had an open hub wheel that was very wide the Jr Pro Arm would be a little less stable while pivoting near the top while the end was captive by the "cup" welded on the frame arm below the wheel as the center post would need to be "through" the wheel because it had no bearing. If that makes sense to you. You would have needed to raise the back post to break the bead on that sort of wheel and then lower it to keep the center post held captive while in the welded cup. Basically the Pro Model is easier to use. The Linkage on the Pro arm is more sturdy than previous with less play in the pin. The older videos show it moving a little. It is in it's 4th generation since the original videos. We tested the strength of the pin with 3 200 lb+ men ramming the arm to attempt to bend or malfunction the pin assembly. The machine will tear out of the floor anchors before the pin bends or fails. As far as breaking the bead goes, one of our typical demonstrations is to break the bead on a sport bike tire with 30 psi still in it on our Classic model. The Pro break arms have twice the applied bead break pressure. It is possible to shred the tire with the ATV breaker T if the tire is so stuck on the wheel with bead bonder. We don't have anything for that situation except a die grinder. The machine can apply lots of pressure. Standard automotive and truck tires are no match for it unless it is a Run Flat tire. You will be unable to break the bead of a run flat tire on any of our equipment.


I was interested in purchasing a Jr. Pro tire changer, but wanted to find out if it'll work from my application. I need to be able to mount and dismount low-profile car tires on 18x8" and 18x8.5" wheels. More specifically, the tires are Hoosier A6 autocross tires in size 275/35-18 and 245/35-18. According to the specs listed for the Jr. Pro model, it looks like it would work, but wanted to find out for sure before ordering one. Thanks for the info!

Yes. You can do it but it will take some effort. I recommend a body weight over 200lbs. Be sure when you clamp the wheel in the blocks that the "drop center" is toward the top for best tire clearance. I have done those with our Mount/Demount bar and a Yellow thing tool. It is probably easier than the spoonbars but having one long spoonbar is very helpful to raise the tire for removal of the second bead.


Am interested in the Jr. Pro Ultimate Tire Assembly. Want to know if it will work for 19"x 11"¯ wheels. From what I saw of your videos, it will. If you see any problems with Auto wheels 20 inches by 12"¯, please let me know.

It will work if they are not Run Flat tires. I would have at least 3 spoonbars(2 long) and a Yellow thing tool on hand for situations in which those tools will insure your success. If you weigh less than 170 lbs I don't recommend any manual changer. You may not have the body weight req'd to manipulate the tire. "Weld" brand wheels can be a problem as their drop center may not be offset and clearance of the tire could be an issue, Even with powered equipment. I weight 230 and could probably take those tires off and put new on in under a minute each.


I have set up the Classic system I ordered. OK - A little learning curve clearly. However, my first tire, a 19" front tire, tubed off a 70 BMW R75/5 is proving a challenge. I cannot get the tire to start off the rim. I have tried the spoon bars, but they are unable to grab the inner lip of the tire. I was able to grab the inner tire lip with the DM bar, but the tip bent right over after attempting to pull the tire over the rim. So, the only think I can think of doing is buying a long tire iron. But I feel I spent a chunk of change for a kit that we specifically discussed for older BMW motorcycles. I have checked your videos, but need some help.

If the wheel and tire are "very" similiar to a dirtbike wheel, narrower than 1-3/4" you will need to use spoons. Those tires fit close in tolerance to the rim. I have done them myself in the past. Important: Location of the valve stem. Try putting it near 10-11:00 with the back post as 12:00. Be sure to spray the lube deep into the drop center all the way around the wheel between the rim and tire. The wetter the better for this one. An angular sliding action with the tip of the bar can usually petetrate and catch the bottom edge of the tire. Insert the tip around 6:00 at a "compound" 45 degree angle toward the left and force it in and slide it toward 9:00 at the same time. This will work. Be sure the rest of the tire is pushed down into the drop center or you will not have clearance. The tire needs to have a place to go to give you space to get the tip in. The lubes help it slide in. Once the tip is in at near 9:00, draw the lobe on the tip of the bar UP toward the edge of the rim. The smallest diameter of the tip will be where you need to pivot the bar. It will be tight and you will need to simultaneousely force the rest of the tire down into the drop center while you lay the body of the bar over toward 3:00. This will work. It is just tight. Extra lube sprayed on the tire at the location of where the tip is lifting the tire can help if you have trouble getting the bar moving and it is wedged in there. Once it starts moving it will come off. Second half of removal similiar. Good luck . Let me know how it goes for you. It will work. You really need to squash the tire down to give it a place to go and wet the friction area where the tip is to get it moving.


I watched your video on how to change an ATV tire, but you already had the bead broke. For the life of me I cannot break the bead on my 10" ATV tires. I just purchased the Classic model and thought I would try it, and was discouraged by the bead-breaker just sliding off of the sidewall. If you have any suggestions on how to accomplish this,they would be appreciated.

See our ATV Bead Breaker T in the accessories. It is $15. It is not a guarantee to break the bead but it will not fold down the tire. Leave some air in it to keep it supported. Remove the two front blocks. If it is a certain Suzuki several years old with OEM tires they may have used a bead bonding agent to glue it on. You could actually rip the tire to shreds without getting the bead portion of the tire off. With those most people use a die grinder to cut it off. It is not necessarily the tool but the glue they used. Our Pro break arm has more leverage than the classic. We do trade ups for $20. You would need to call the order in but you may want that if you will be dealing with more of these. That is why we have the heavier break arms on the Pro-models. Let me know if you want any parts.


I just finished putting ME880s on my '03 BMW K1200LTC. Although the NoMar Bar was good at demounting, it wasn't very useful for the mount portion - this is odd because when I used Avons on the same bike, there wasn't very much difficulty using the bar. I attribute this to the Metzlers being "the tire of iron" and significantly stiffer. I have watched the GL1800 tire change video several times and it makes me sick to see how easy it was with the SpoonBars! ;-) In your opinion, are a few SpoonBars better for this tire/wheel combination? If so, would 2-21" and 1-16" be adequate? BTW - I use the Harbor Freight setup...

We do NOT recommend using the SpoonBars for Sport and Sport Touring style tires. You may bend the bars or Tear your tire. There is generally not enough room for them to fit with the close tire to wheel tolerance. Your LT wheel should have been fairly easy with our Mount Demount Bar on installation. Using the Lubes "Exactly" as we show in our videos and making sure that you have the "handle" attached to the Mount/Demount bar "exactly" as we show it's placement, are critical for this to work flawlessly. Using the bar body technique "exactly" as we show will put your tires on quite easily unless you don't weigh very much. Then a little bouncing with your left hand on the tire will get it down into the drop center enough as you push the bar around with your hip and pull the handle with your right hand. Maybe wedging a few small wood blocks in between the tire and rim where your left hand is holding the tire down could be helpful for you. Your tires may seem stiff to you but they are nothing like Dunlop Elite III 60's which we designed the spoonbars for and show with the GL 1800 rear wheel. It is much like a Run Flat type tire. You can't tell if there is air in the tire after the bead is seated unless you put a gauge on it. If you see us at an event or rally in the future,stop by and we will do some hands-on with you with your techniques. It will be worth your 2 minutes.


I am having a very hard time with my front Carrozzeria forged wheel; these wheels have a very shallow drop center, almost none at all. The last tire I had I was able to get one side on and never could get the other side, I had to take it to a shop, I have tried every technique you have, this is my second change for the front, and I did actually manage to get the tire off, with tire irons after several hours of cussing and a f-ed up lip, the new tire I can not even get the first edge over the lip, it is driving me crazy. The whole reason I got my machine (classic) was so these rims would not get scratched up. I have done probably 50 other wheels including a full size Honda shadow tire, and forged magnesium PVM wheels with absolutely no problem, all with the mount/demount bar. These Carrozzeria wheels are being a major pain in my butt. I am going to sell the wheels, and surely you have done one of these wheels before? Any help? If you have not done one of these wheels, please find one and see what I mean.

We know the wheel. We would consider that a one in 1000 wheel that was engineered very poorly despite the weight. They suck. We have a good friend with one, and not all Carrozeria are the same. You may need to resort to tire spoons to deal with it. It is not the machine, it is definately the wheel. We could barely spoon the tire on. We began changing our friend's tire because everyone with a powered machine cound not get his tires on. We removed the tire with the mount/demount bar (barely), and needed to spoon them on with one rim protector at the end with regular spoons. Sorry to dissappoint you on that one, but it is definately the wheel. The Triumph Rocket 2 had that problem and they recalled the wheels after 3 years of bitching from dealers. You need to make some noise with the wheel manufacturer.

(second reply) Thanks I pretty much knew it was the wheel design. I have contacted them and let them know my feelings on their wheels several times on several issues. Taking the tire off I used rim protectors and still marred the lip the tire was that tight. Anyway I can not even get the front edge of the new tire to even start. Thanks for letting me vent, I plan to just sell these pos wheels and get some Marchesinis or Galepeed.


Do you have any advice for trying to mount a bead seater to your tire changers or just using one with your products? Reasons I should buy your products rather than Wikco? I am planning to start a small shop.

Well, we can take this into great detail. Here are a few highlights:

Bead Seaters are usually used for truck and automotive tires. 99% of the time you can seat the tire bead with a small air compressor with a "High Flow Fill Valve" much like what we sell. By lubricating the "Drop Center" of the wheel before you install the tire, it creates a better seal to catch the air. The sidewall of most motorcycle tires is much stiffer than the automotive tires that a bead seater blow device would be effective on, and the volume of air in most cycle tires is not significant enough to "blow up" with the seating device. Personally, I think you would be wasting your money on one for Motorcycle tires. If you are looking for a tire changer at the same entry level as the Wikco, check out our "Cycle Hill" tire changer at www.cyclehill.com.

The Cycle Hill is a great unit with our Patented Mount/Demount bar and fail safe "Rim Clamp Set" to hold the wheels ($365). Inexpensive gripping spools ($12 set) compared to the Optional plastic hooks on the Wikco- (which are the same Coats power machine parts that sell for $16 each). They are hard plastic. Ours are UHMW polyethylene which grip better and can't crack or shatter. We give you instructions, tire lube, and accessories standard. Wikco does not. Ours costs less and is a better value all around. No C-Channel and crappy wheel lock. We have independent screw adjusters; they have one screw. Our clamps adjust quickly in their respective peg holes. Theirs require a bit more time and patience. The Cycle Hill Tire Changer is made on the same assembly line as all of our other tire changers lines and products. We strive for the highest standards on all of our tools. We even make our own custom foam packaging in house to assure the safest shipment by the most careless delivery driver. All Made in USA. Stop by for a plant tour if you are passing through St. Louis.

Now for The No-Mar line of tire changers. Probably more suited for daily frequent use due to their great design, ergonomics, and lifetime warranty on all non-marring parts. The best in the business. We guarantee that you will not scratch or damage your wheels or rotors if you follow the video instructions and keep the machine clean. See our Videos for complete understanding of how they work. Type No-Mar Tire Changer in google search and see what comes up. 80+ pages of positive testimonials and chat room stuff. We don't need to sell people on them. Our customers are so excited they sell them by word of mouth. We are the best and so are our machines. They are even used in some of the top US museums and custom shops. We have the best customer service, best product, and value pricing. We also ride motorcycles.

We are the only tire changer company that promotes riding of all styles. All of our staff who manufacture the tools, from machinists on CNC equip., to welders and assemblers, and shippers, can go into public and demonstrate how our tools work with confidence and exactness. That is why we have the best customer service. We all know how to change every tire and know exactly why things are the way they are when they go into the box.

I hope I have answered your questions. We are a permanent player in this industry. We can process about 80,000 parts per month. Our tools and machines are not made in a pole barn or in the garages of Chinese families. We will have a "How they're made" video shortly. It's pretty cool.


I have changed some smaller motorcycle tires with no problems, but this is my first sport bike effort. It is a Buell 17"¯ rear with a Dunlop 180/55x17 Sportmax. After breaking the bead, I got the MD bar under the bead, pulled it up and laid the bar over. After securing the center post, I proceeded to work my way around the tire, but the bead slips back down as I go. I used a spoon bar to hold it in place and successfully demounted the top bead. I know from watching your excellent videos that I should not have had to use the spoon bar. But, now I simply cannot get the MD bar under the lower bead. I've changed many tires by hand so I'm familiar with managing the bead's position all around the tire, but I can't get the tip of the MD bar under that bottom bead, no matter what I do. I might be able to squeeze the tire together at that point to allow me to pry outward on the MD bar, but I would need a helper, which I don't have right now. I'm sure that it's a technique issue, but I need a little help.

Unfortunately, it probably is not a problem with the tool. We remove them all of the time. It is a technique thing. I have worked with many people on this. I could lift the tires in most cases with two fingers and manipulate the bar with two other fingers and demount the most precarious tire. If you are puling or straining at all with that wheel and tire combo there is something you can be doing differently. Maybe the valve stem is preventing the tire from moving into the optimum spot in the drop center of the rim, or maybe you are not bending the tire enough while keeping it elevated. When the top portion of the tire bends the bottom usually becomes accessible with the lobe of the bar. Some people just don't have developed forearm strength. For those I recommend sliding one of our spoonbars up to lift the tire for access with the tip. Personally, I usually find this more difficult with most tires. You can see this technique in our Honda Goldwing video and the Monster 360 video. Maybe that is what you should be doing? Last week I flew to Atlanta to coach a guy with a FJR wheel. He had a lot of trouble at first until he "got it" then he was able to do it every time. The other tires you have successfully removed may have been lucky. Maybe your techinque can be refined further. I have had quite a few people who own our machine and love it come up to us at shows to demonstrate their skills and we had to intercept them before they did damage to our wheels. You may need to use a tire spoon or thin stick of wood to prevent the tire from creeping behind the removal tip of the bar. This is usually the case with some of the custom wheels like Carrozeria and Marchesini. They simply left very shallow drop centers not allowing adequate clearance for the tire to be removed easily in attempt to reduce mass. Watch where the valve stem is. If you have a bolt in stem, it probably projects out farther than the rubber ones. Position the stem at 10:00 near where you are lifting the tire for the bar tips to fit in. This should allow you to work around it's interference
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