Mount /Demount bar (M/D Bar) with proper "Lubrication Technique"

Be sure to use proper tire lubricant techniques for best slippage (see Videos) and read this to the end.

Insert the single end of M/D bar at 8 o'clock on the machine frame (the Upright Rear Post being 12 o'clock). Insert tip between rubber and wheel then twist 90 degrees . Pull bar straight up drawing tire bead toward the edge of rim. Flip bar over rim toward 2 o'clock when plastic end is securely contacting the edge of the wheel. Bar will pivot around center post in a clockwise direction (see Videos).

Use of a "Tire Spoon" or wood or plastic stick will be helpful as to prevent the tire bead from "Walking" with the rotation of the M/D Bar (see Videos).

Pivot the M/D bar perpendicular to center post for maximum leverage. This is different than other bars! Experienced people will need to break a habit (see Videos).

Place double-tipped end of M/D Bar at 8 o'clock, lower arm and adjust pivot post (the Upright Rear Post being 12 o'clock). Walk the tire bead counterclockwise toward 3 o'clock with your hand, then rotate M/D Bar by pushing it with your left hip until bead pops over rim entirely. See above technique for correct body position.

*If you are having trouble inserting the single end of the Mount / Demount bar in between the tire and rim even with the use of 1 Extra Hand clamp, You can insert the bar end next to the Extra Hand clamp , then slide the bar around to 8 o'clock where it will need to be to begin tire demount. Remove the clamp after the bar has been "Flipped over" to begin tire removal. This works well with FJR and ZX wheels, which seem to have the least tolerance.

Note: Touring Tires with stiff sidewalls (Such as Honda Goldwing GL 1800) will always be the most challenge on any manual changer. With the use of some of our tips, installing these problem tires can be much easier than your used to. We strongly recommend the use of our RIM CLAMP SET when clamping these types of wheels/tires into the changer. Otherwise it will take the help of one or two assistants to compress the tire over the wheel-locking device.

If Your bar gets stuck at about 12 o'clock when trying to seat the final bead on tire installation, there is more "Lubing" to do. Stop. Unseat the bead of the tire you're struggling with and lube the "Wheel" between 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock and lube the "Inside" lip of the tire between 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock. The bar is getting stuck because of the friction between the tire and the rim, not the ends of the tool. If you just add lubricant to the tire and "Tool" area on the sidewall, the tool is just going to "Ride out" of the bead area or get bound up (see Videos). NOTE*** IF your dealing with a non pliable tire (Such as Honda Goldwing GL 1800), you need to switch to our SpoonBars instead of the Mount/Demount bar for installation.

A little lube around the inside of the tire is a good practice for easy tire changing. Our demonstration videos are done with tires and rims that have been misted "thoroughly" with lube. That's why it looks easy. If you are fighting with the tire at any time, there is something that can be done differently. Usually repositioning the tire in relation to the "valley" at the center of the rim perimeter or not so obvious lubrication. If you are concerned that you are using too much lubricant, and that the tire could "Slip" on the rim, you may wipe off the excess with a wet rag. The lubricant we sell is water-soluble and is designed to clean off easily and not evaporate while you are using it. It is classified as a "Rubber Lubricant" and can be used to hydrate all rubber products(Bushings, Antique tire restoration, Seals, O-rings, Ect.)

If you are having any challenges, be sure to lube the inside of the tire where the tire is pulling over the rim between 10:00 and 2:00 (this is about where your bar is probably getting stuck, if your not using the right lube technique). There should never be excessive rotational force required when using the correct technique. The wheel can slip if you rely on the clamps to prevent rotation. If you actually have the sort of tire that absolutely would not go on with the Mount/Demount bar then switch tools and us the SpoonBars to put it on. (call our office if you are uncertain)

Be sure to note the following;

• →Have the "Handle" attached to the Mount/Demount bar where we show it. Without it, it will not work that well.
• →The handle is for your "Right" hand and is pulled.
• →The bar is pushed with your left hip. It is rotated clockwise.
• →Your left hand should be collapsing the tire ahead of your hip and behind the head of the bar.
• →Apply lube paste, generously to the "Drop Center" of the rim and inside the tire where it pulls over the outer edge of the rim, before you begin tire installation - this is essential.

The other main thing to watch is the position of the valve stem. For tire removal, it should be about 8:00 and for tire installation, it should be about 2:00. The position of the stem can make a big difference on some wheels. It prevents the tire from slipping deep into the drop center reducing the clearance it takes to pull over the rim. You will not stretch the tire. The cable in the bead area is nearly 1/4" diameter or more. Some tires really fold under a lot for clearance. That is why the lube on the drop center of the rim is so important.

The position of your left hand collapsing the tire prevents the tire from rotating, to a certain degree. If you are trying to use an Xtra Hand Clamp to prevent the tire from creeping behind the bar for the installation of the last half of the tire, that may be a problem. Our Yellow Thing tool does not push the tire down too far and allows the M/D bar to pass over it without mis-tracking. I have seen photos of someone's bound up tire with the black clamp installed. They remove the clamp and the tire goes on.

Please watch our Videos for complete demonstrations. We have made a wide variety of training videos with all sorts of tire/wheel combinations, demonstrating all of the techniques we use to change almost any tire - usually with ease.

Patented wheel lock System

No-Mar dogged blocks- Each block aligns with holes in frame arms and lock in by gravity and when cam lock force is applied, the dogged blocks locking pins, with grooves, engage the tube frame and self lock into the frame, preventing them from lifting.

The dogged blocks can be lifted and rotated to offer 4 separate size adjustments each. EXAMPLE: if your locking a 17" wheel, then you would use the 16" (indicates a range of 16"-19") peg hole as marked on the side of the frame in yellow.

In conjunction with the hole positions in the frame arms, you will be able to lock any size wheel within the specified range of your changer model. TIP: when ratio of blocks is such that it seems like wheel barely fits, your hole and dogged block position is probably right. Just push wheel into dogged blocks horizontally to engage locking pins in the frame arms,they spread up to 1/4" overall, then rotate locking cam counterclockwise until wheel is firmly locked. Double-check that both dogged blocks and the Locking Cam are surely engaged on the edge of the wheel rim before proceeding. (see Videos)

Locking Cam with faceted adjustment. Begin engagement of wheel at widest adjustment on block. Rotate cam with handle counterclockwise until wheel is firmly locked onto machine frame. The cam squeeze range is approx 1/2". Wheel grip is achieved through friction of the Non Marring Blocks on edge of wheels.

Wheel Lock

Tires with stiff sidewalls may require the use of three (3) ExtraHand, Clamps that we sell to pre-compress the tire bead away from edge of the rim. The XtraHand clamps separate the tire from wheel for clearance when clamping the wheel into the No-Mar locking blocks. Each XtraHand clamp will be on the wheel positioned next to each of the No-Mar clamping blocks. (see Videos) Use of small wood blocks (approx. 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 2 1/2") may be helpful when dealing with stiff-walled touring tires. The blocks are inserted between tire bead and rim edge while rotating Mount end of M/D bar for final bead stretch. The blocks help keep the bead toward center of the wheel for maximum tire/rim clearance

No-Mar dogged blocks- Each block aligns with holes in frame arms and lock in by gravity and when cam lock force is applied, the dogged blocks locking pins, with grooves, engage the tube frame and self lock into the frame, preventing them from lifting.

The dogged blocks can be lifted and rotated to offer 4 separate size adjustments each. EXAMPLE: if your locking a 17" wheel, then you would use the 16" (indicates a range of 16"-19") peg hole as marked on the side of the frame in yellow. In conjunction with the hole positions in the frame arms, you will be able to lock any size wheel within the specified range of your changer model. TIP: when ratio of blocks is such that it seems like wheel barely fits, your hole and dogged block position is probably right. Just push wheel into dogged blocks horizontally to engage locking pins in the frame arms,they spread up to 1/4" overall, then rotate locking cam counterclockwise until wheel is firmly locked. Double-check that both dogged blocks and the Locking Cam are surely engaged on the edge of the wheel rim before proceeding. (see Videos)

Locking Cam with faceted adjustment. Begin engagement of wheel at widest adjustment on block. Rotate cam with handle counterclockwise until wheel is firmly locked onto machine frame. The cam squeeze range is approx 1/2". Wheel grip is achieved through friction of the Non Marring Blocks on edge of wheels.

Installation

Securely bolt machine stand to concrete floor or trailer deck, or HitchMount. Plywood sub floors may require another layer of 3/4" plywood for more solid mount as the flooring may bend while in use.

Beadbreaker

On the No-Mar Classic, difficult tire beads may require the use of a "Cheater Pipe" to extend the leverage on the breaker arm. The Pro, and the JrPro come with extra long, extra heavy duty breaker arm for maximum leverage.
Place rear dogged block in the hole Marked by the Yellow Arrow when using bead breaker.

Hinged Arm with Pivot Post: No-Mar Classic

This device has a Safety Lock bar to prevent the arm from raising and pivot post from slipping away from wheel center and scratching any center portion of the wheel. It is important that the Post be lowered at least 1" into either bearing center, Hub center or other nook near wheel center that will hold pivot post captive while using the M/D Bar. Slight flex in machine frame is designed for a purpose.

Other machines such as the Coats 220 and the No-Mar Pro Model have center posts that float over the wheel. When using the No-Mar Classic, alignment of Pivot Post into captive wheel center will be a habit to break if you are experienced on other machines. The No-Mar Classic is a precision tool intended to adjust infinitely between 10" and 21" wheels, as well as be portable and inexpensive. Maintaining captivity of Pivot Post at vicinity of wheel center (does NOT have to be the exact center) is essential for safe and easy use of our machine.

Carbon Fiber Wheels

We have changed a number of carbon fiber wheels with great success. Absolutely NO damage, No creaking, cracking, rub marks, scratches - Nothing. We fully engaged the locking cam from a tight fit in the Locking Blocks to full clamp position. Wheel had maybe 1" of rotational slippage while wrestling on a tight tolerance wheel/tire ratio.

It is possible to use a nylon strap or tie down strap to prevent wheel slippage for over-cautious users that don't want to stomach maximum clamp pressure. The Mount/Demount Bar glides around the edge of the wheel. The important point to remember when using this bar on Carbon fiber wheels is the Beginning Demount.

Be sure to ease tire bead toward Valley of the wheel rim at 2:00 (very Important ! See Videos) when insertion of single end of M/D Bar at 8:00 of machine frame (the Upright Rear Post being 12 o'clock). Ease the bar over carefully, ensuring that you have hooked the bead, and pulled it upward, also hooking the rim (Very Important ! See Videos).

You should have no problems. Remember Carbon Fiber wheels may have a closer wheel / Tire size ratio (They fit Tighter) than most stock sportbike wheels. (What were they thinking?)

Above all else, WATCH EVERY VIDEO WE HAVE!! They are there to answer the questions we get on technique. We use a variety of wheel & tire combinations, and different models of the No-Mar tire changer on each one.