What is the difference between Posi-Clamps® and the locking Cam & Dog Block wheel clamping systems?
Posi-Clamps® will clamp just about any wheel and tire combination, and have a relief area at the rear of each clamp that allows more manipulation of the tire to keep the bead in the drop center of the wheel while mounting and demounting the tire. Each of the three Posi-Clamps® is tightened individually to maintain a secure grip on the wheel, and are never to be used for bead breaking as doing so can severely damage both the wheel and the Posi-Clamps®.
The locking Cam & Dog Blocks are primarily designed for Sport Bike/Sport Touring tires that compress easily and don't require the additional clearance of stiffer tires. The two dog blocks are set in place based on wheel size, and the locking cam quickly locks the wheel into place. The Cam & Dog Blocks also serve as the press plates for waist-high bead breaking.
The Classic HD® model includes the locking Cam & Dog Block system and features waist-high bead breaking.
The Cycle Hill® CH100HD and CH100HD-Plus models come standard with Posi-Clamps® and feature ground-level bead breaking.
Finally, the Professional Model Tire Changers include BOTH wheel clamping systems, and feature both waist-high and ground-level bead breaking.
Ground-level bead breaking requires more care and attention to avoid damaging you wheels. Waist-high bead breaking is safer and faster, but may not be ideal for some ATV, SxS, and automotive tires.
Helping you choose:
- If you will be working exclusively on Sport bikes and/or Sport Touring bikes, the Classic HD® is the perfect fit right out of the box, but on a budget the Cycle Hill® HD and HD Plus models will also work just fine for you.
- If you will be working on Cruisers, dirt bikes, ATVs, Adventure bikes, etc. you will require Posi-Clamps® which can be added to a Classic HD®, or come standard with Cycle Hill® HD and HD Plus models.
- The most popular combination a majority of our customers choose is a Classic HD® with the addition of Posi-Clamps (available at a discount if purchased with the tire changer). This combination covers pretty much any wheel and tire combination you could ever come across except for tires that might require tire irons or our non-marring SpoonBars® (like Gold Wing rear tires!).
The most frequent considerations as to which tire changer and clamping system(s) will be best for you come down to if you would prefer waist-high bead breaking over ground-level bead breaking, how often you will be changing tires, and if your wheels & tires will require Posi-Clamps®.
I bent/broke the Demount tip on the Mount/Demount bar the first time I used it
You didn’t follow the printed instructions or watch our videos, did you? ;)
The demount tip is going to bend and break if you use the mount/demount bar like a prybar (incorrectly). It is designed to LIFT the bead of the tire to the top lip of the wheel. Trying to pry the bead over the lip will result in the tip breaking every time.
For the top bead, you need to PUSH DOWN on the sidewall of the tire opposite the bar to keep the bead in the drop center, and for the lower bead you need to PULL UP on the sidewall of the tire opposite the bar to keep the bead in the drop center of the wheel. You must maintain this pushing or pulling on the opposite side of the tire during the entire demounting process!
While holding the opposite side bead in the drop center, you will then begin LIFTING/PULLING the bar straight up until the notch of the tip reaches the lip of the wheel. On some tires this will me more difficult and you may need to “wiggle” or “rock” the bar a bit while lifting, while with other tires you may need to lift at a slight angle away from the center of the wheel (10 or 11 o’clock if 12 o’clock is straight up). More spray lube can also help quite a bit. The most important thing is to NEVER PRY!
Once the notch of the tip is at the lip of the wheel you can lay the bar over the wheel without damaging the tip. If you feel a lot of resistance as if the tip is trying to pry while laying the bar over, then it either has not been lifted to the correct position or you let go of the opposite side of the tire and it is no longer in the drop center. If you feel resistance STOP and make sure the notch of the tip is in the correct position and the bead opposite the bar is in the drop center of the wheel before laying the bar over.
Typically, demount tips should last for 100 tire changes or more using the correct technique. Certain tires (most Gold Wing rear, car/truck and trailer tires) will wear tips out faster (some Gold Wing rear tires can wear out tips in 10-15 tire changes). Mount tips should almost never require replacement when used correctly.
We provide a replacement demount tip with every Mount/Demount Bar because we have found that people fail to follow the instructions and watch our videos. Further they often don’t quite understand that tires are not stretched on and off the wheel, but instead are shifted sideways by manipulating the bead into the drop center of the wheel allowing the shape of the tire to be altered into a slight oval to pass over the round wheel.
Additional replacement demount tips are available in packs of 3: Replacement Demount Tips [3/pk]
Below is a list of a few problem tires and wheels that can often be made easier by a. heating up the tire, b. using tire spoons, c. using more tire lube:
BMW- F650 Front 21"
Triumph Rocket III
All Carrozzeria wheels
Suzuki Burgman Scooter
Dunlop Elite 3 250 wide
Aftermarket rims with self sealing band around spokes
Aftermarket rims with no distinct drop center especially wide 250-300
Monster 30" thru 33" diameter
Dirtbike and very knobby adventure tires usually require tire spoons and not the Mount/Demount bar.
GL1800 Rear requires using our non-marring SpoonBars for installation.